A power outage stops being a minor inconvenience when it shuts down the systems your home depends on. The refrigerator begins warming. A sump pump stops moving water. A well pump can no longer provide water. Internet and home-office systems go offline. In winter, an outage can interrupt a furnace, boiler, heat pump, or electric heating system when the home needs heat most.
That is why the best backup power plan is not simply \"buy the biggest generator.\" It is a home-resilience plan built around the loads that matter, the fuel available on your property, the outages common in your region and the amount of manual work your household can realistically manage during a storm.
Greenfoot Energy Solutions installs, repairs and maintains residential generators across Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland and Labrador, and British Columbia. Its current generator offering includes professionally installed natural-gas and propane standby systems, automatic transfer switches, in-home sizing assessments and ongoing maintenance.
Direct answer
A portable generator is usually the lowest-cost way to power a limited number of essentials during an outage, but it requires safe outdoor setup, fuel handling and manual operation. A whole-home standby generator is permanently installed, starts automatically and can support selected circuits or most of the home — making it the stronger choice for frequent outages, rural properties, sump pumps, wells, medical needs and homes that cannot be left without heat.
Why backup power matters in a Canadian home
Public Safety Canada recommends that households be able to support themselves for at least 72 hours during an emergency. Natural Resources Canada identifies standby generators, batteries and backup sump-pump power as home-resilience measures. A generator can be part of that plan, but it does not replace food, water, medication, communications, an evacuation plan or safe operating procedures.
Heating and freeze protection
Many heating systems need electricity even when the main fuel is not electricity. A propane, oil or natural-gas furnace still requires a blower, controls and ignition. A boiler may rely on circulation pumps and electronic controls. A heat pump is entirely dependent on electricity. During a long winter outage, falling indoor temperatures can contribute to frozen plumbing and water damage. A generator may keep heating equipment operating, but sizing must use the actual blower, pump, compressor and auxiliary-heat loads.
Sump pumps and flood protection
A sump pump is most valuable when severe rain, snowmelt or groundwater is putting pressure on the foundation — the same conditions that can cause an outage. The Government of Canada specifically recommends a battery- or generator-powered backup sump pump, because a backup pump connected to the same failed electrical source will not protect the basement. A generator can power the primary sump pump, while a separate battery backup provides redundancy before portable power is established.
Well pumps and rural water supply
Homes on municipal water may continue receiving water during many outages. Homes with private wells often do not. The well pump can be one of the largest and most demanding essential loads because its electric motor draws more power during startup than during steady operation. Also identify septic pumps, lift stations and water-treatment equipment — a system sized only for lights and refrigeration may not start a deep-well pump.
Refrigeration, medical devices and home offices
A full freezer may keep food frozen for roughly 24 to 48 hours if it remains closed, but that window shortens as the outage continues. Households using powered medical or accessibility equipment need a written outage plan that includes suitable batteries, emergency contacts and fuel planning. For remote work, the priority may be the modem, router, computer and selected lighting — a small uninterruptible power supply (UPS) can bridge the brief interruption before a standby generator supplies power.
Portable vs. standby generators
The main generator decision is not brand first. It is whether your household needs a manually deployed portable generator or an automatically operated standby system.
| Factor | Portable generator | Whole-home standby generator |
|---|---|---|
| Installation | Stored until needed | Permanently installed outside on a prepared base |
| Startup | Manual setup and starting | Automatic when paired with an automatic transfer switch |
| Typical coverage | Selected appliances and essential circuits | Selected circuits, managed loads or whole-home coverage |
| Common fuel | Gasoline; some models use propane | Natural gas or propane |
| Outage readiness | Requires someone home and able to operate it safely | Can operate while the homeowner is away |
| Upfront cost | Lower | Higher |
| Best fit | Infrequent outages, limited essential loads | Frequent or extended outages, critical systems, automatic protection |
When a portable generator makes sense
A portable generator can be appropriate when outages are uncommon, only a few essentials need power and an adult can safely deploy and monitor the unit outdoors. A portable generator is not an indoor appliance. Health Canada says fuel-burning portable generators should be operated at least six metres (20 feet) from homes and buildings, with exhaust directed away from doors, windows and vents. They must never run in a house, garage, shed, crawlspace or partly enclosed area, even if a door is open.
When a standby generator makes sense
A standby generator sits outside like other mechanical equipment, monitors utility power through a transfer system and starts automatically when required. When utility service returns and stabilizes, the transfer switch moves the home back to utility power and the generator shuts down after its programmed sequence. Standby power is particularly valuable for sump pumps, wells, sewage pumps, medical needs, winter heating, rural properties, frequent outages and homes that need protection while vacant.
What should a generator power?
A generator assessment should divide household loads into three groups: essential, important and optional.
Essential loads
- Heating-system controls, blower or circulation pump
- Sump pump and battery-backup charger
- Well pump and critical water-treatment equipment
- Refrigerator and freezer
- Medical and accessibility equipment
- Smoke and carbon-monoxide alarms
- Limited lighting and receptacles
- Communications, internet and phone charging
- Septic or sewage equipment where required
Important comfort loads
- Selected kitchen circuits; microwave or small cooking appliances
- Garage-door opener; home-office equipment; television
- One heat-pump zone or central HVAC equipment if properly sized
- Domestic hot water, depending on fuel and electrical demand
Optional high-demand loads
Electric range, dryer, water heater, hot tub, EV charger, multiple large heat pumps and central air conditioning are often excluded or managed so only one operates at a time. These loads can increase required generator size significantly.
How to size a residential generator
The question \"How big of a generator do I need?\" cannot be answered accurately from house size alone. Two 2,000-square-foot homes may have completely different loads because one uses propane heat and municipal water while the other uses an electric heat pump, well pump, electric water heater and sump pump.
Motors and compressors may require much more power at startup than while running. The design must handle the largest realistic combination of running and starting loads. Nameplate data, manuals and an electrical load calculation are more reliable than generic charts.
Where 18 kW, 22 kW and 26 kW systems fit
Greenfoot currently offers 18 kW, 22 kW and 26 kW standby packages. In broad terms:
- 18 kW may suit essential loads and many mid-sized homes with sensible load management
- 22 kW provides more room for additional appliances and motor-starting demand
- 26 kW can support broader coverage in homes with larger electrical requirements
These are starting frameworks, not universal rules. The correct size is the smallest system that can safely handle the agreed load plan and motor-starting demand with appropriate margin.
How an automatic transfer switch works
An automatic transfer switch (ATS) is the control point between utility power, generator power and the home's electrical system. During normal operation, the home receives utility electricity. When the ATS detects an outage, it signals the standby generator to start. After the generator reaches acceptable voltage and frequency, the switch transfers the selected home loads to generator power. When stable utility power returns, the ATS transfers the home back and the generator completes its cooldown sequence.
The switch also prevents generator electricity from feeding back into the utility grid. Backfeeding can endanger utility workers and damage equipment. Utilities across Canada consistently warn that a generator may only be connected to home wiring through approved transfer equipment installed under the applicable permit and inspection process.
Natural gas vs. propane
Most residential standby generators use natural gas or liquid propane. The better fuel is the one that can be supplied safely, reliably and economically at the required flow during an extended outage.
| Consideration | Natural gas | Propane |
|---|---|---|
| Supply | Utility pipeline where available | Stored in an on-site tank |
| Refuelling | No homeowner refuelling during normal pipeline service | Runtime limited by tank capacity and generator load |
| Rural availability | Often unavailable outside serviced areas | Widely used on rural properties |
| Extreme-event resilience | Depends on integrity of local gas service | Fuel is physically stored at the property |
Many standby models can be configured for natural gas or propane, but homeowners should not casually switch between fuels. Fuel pressure, pipe sizing, regulator settings and equipment configuration differ — the manufacturer and a licensed gas professional must determine whether conversion is permitted.
Installation, permits and electrical-code requirements
A residential standby generator is a coordinated electrical, fuel-gas and site project. A complete installation normally includes a home load and kW assessment, electrical panel review, generator and transfer-switch selection, site and clearance planning, concrete or approved composite base, trenching where required, electrical conductors and controls, natural-gas or propane connection, permits and inspections, and startup with homeowner orientation.
Provincial permit requirements
- Nova Scotia: provincial electrical-safety guidance says portable standby equipment connected to building wiring should be installed by a qualified electrician under permit so it can be inspected.
- New Brunswick: licensed electrical contractors obtain wiring permits; electrical construction and maintenance must be completed by licensed electricians or supervised apprentices.
- Prince Edward Island: only a licensed electrical contractor can obtain an electrical permit; Maritime Electric states that a standby generator connected to household wiring must use a transfer switch.
- Newfoundland and Labrador: provincial approval is required before private-generation equipment, generators, switchboards and large batteries are installed; permits are generally issued to registered electrical contractors.
- British Columbia: BC Hydro says a home-wiring connection requires a CSA-approved transfer switch, an electrical permit and inspection. Gas-fired stationary generators may also need a gas installation permit.
Generator costs in Canada
Generator pricing depends on size, fuel, transfer equipment, electrical service, trenching, gas capacity, site work and permit requirements.
- Portable generators: roughly $300 for small units to more than $3,000 for high-output or inverter models before accessories or electrical work.
- Whole-home standby systems: Greenfoot's current guidance places professionally installed systems at approximately $8,000 to $20,000+, depending on generator size, installation complexity and fuel type.
Factors that push a project toward the upper end include long electrical or fuel-line runs, gas-meter or propane-tank upgrades, difficult trenching or rock excavation, panel replacement, multiple transfer switches and extensive load-management controls.
Is a whole-home generator worth it?
A generator is not normally an energy-saving investment. Its return is resilience: avoided basement flooding, frozen-pipe damage, food loss, hotel stays, business interruption and unsafe indoor temperatures. The case is strongest where one prevented flood, freeze or business-interruption incident could equal a meaningful portion of the installation cost. Pairing a generator with better insulation also slows indoor temperature loss during an outage, reducing how hard the generator has to work.
Maintenance and testing
Reliability depends on routine exercise, inspection and service. Greenfoot's YETI maintenance plans cover generator service alongside HVAC equipment. Professional maintenance commonly includes:
- Oil and filter service; air-filter inspection or replacement; spark-plug inspection
- Battery test and terminal inspection; enclosure and pest inspection
- Fuel-system and regulator checks; fault-code review
- Transfer-switch inspection; exercise-cycle confirmation
- Loaded operational test where appropriate; software or monitoring review
Exercise cycles are not a complete test
A short exercise confirms startup, not full-load readiness. Professional inspection and appropriate testing can reveal weak batteries, fuel-supply issues and transfer faults before storm season.
Storm-season preparation checklist
One to two months before storm season
- Schedule generator maintenance before appointment calendars fill
- Confirm the generator completes its exercise cycle without a fault
- Service the sump pump and test the independent backup system
- Confirm propane level or natural-gas service readiness
- Build or refresh the household 72-hour emergency kit
- Test smoke and carbon-monoxide alarms and replace batteries
- Record utility outage numbers and download the utility outage app
- Check downspouts, grading and drainage
When a storm is forecast
- Charge phones, power banks, medical batteries and UPS units
- Fill the vehicle or charge the EV while grid power is available
- Confirm the generator enclosure and air openings are not blocked
- Secure outdoor items that could damage equipment
- Review the home's load priorities with everyone who may be present
During an outage with a portable generator
- Operate it outdoors at least six metres from buildings, with exhaust directed away from openings
- Never run it in a garage, attached carport, shed, basement or enclosed porch
- Use working carbon-monoxide alarms; keep children and pets away
- Never plug it into a household wall receptacle — only use approved transfer equipment
- Shut it down and let it cool before refuelling
Provincial backup-power considerations
Nova Scotia
Nova Scotia Power says trees contacting lines are the leading cause of outages — heavy snow, ice, hurricanes and salt contamination can also interrupt service. Priority considerations include sump-pump and drainage protection during rain-heavy storms, heating-system backup during winter wind and ice events, and corrosion-aware placement and maintenance near salt exposure.
New Brunswick
NB Power says most outages are caused by high winds, lightning, freezing rain, snow, rain or flooding. Rural NB homes often combine private wells, sump pumps, septic equipment and non-electric heating appliances that still need electricity for controls or blowers — an essential-load plan should account for all those systems together. NB Power also offers its SureConnect service for eligible customers wanting an approved way to connect a compatible portable generator.
Prince Edward Island
Maritime Electric describes storm and outage preparation as part of living on PEI. Key priorities include sump pumps during heavy rain, well pumps on rural properties, and heating and freeze protection during winter outages. The PEI Electrical Inspection Act requires a licensed electrician, an electrical permit and a transfer switch for any standby generator connected to household wiring.
Newfoundland and Labrador
Newfoundland Power identifies wind, snow, ice, lightning and severe weather as outage causes. The province's climate makes heating-system operation, frozen-pipe prevention and private well pumps especially important. Fuel availability during road or ferry disruptions is a real planning factor for rural and remote households.
British Columbia
BC planning must account for windstorms, wildfire, flooding, landslides, snow and earthquakes. BC Hydro says more than half of provincial outages involve adverse weather bringing trees into contact with its system. South Coast and Vancouver Island homeowners prioritize wind and earthquake readiness; the Interior adds wildfire, smoke and extreme heat; mountain and northern communities focus on snow loading, cold and fuel logistics.
Important: evacuation zones
A generator is not a reason to remain in an evacuation zone. During wildfire or flood events, follow evacuation orders immediately. Restoration may be delayed until emergency agencies and utility crews can access the area safely.
Generators, batteries and UPS systems
Backup power does not need to be a single technology. A layered approach often works best:
- UPS (uninterruptible power supply): best for short-duration, low-power equipment like modem, router, desktop computer and security hub. Bridges the few seconds before a standby generator supplies power.
- Portable battery power stations: quiet, no carbon monoxide, usable indoors. Useful for electronics, lights and small devices. Not a substitute for a whole-home standby generator when the requirement includes days of winter heating or a large well pump.
- Home batteries and solar: a permanently installed battery can provide automatic, quiet backup. Solar can recharge it during an outage only when the system is designed for backup operation — ordinary grid-tied solar normally shuts down with the grid.
Common generator mistakes
- Buying by square footage alone. Square footage does not reveal heating fuel, pump motors, electric resistance loads or startup demand. Use a circuit and equipment inventory.
- Assuming "whole home" means unlimited simultaneous use. Even a large residential generator has a limit. Load management controls matter as much as the kW rating.
- Ignoring fuel-system capacity. A generator may be correctly sized electrically but starved for fuel by an undersized gas line, meter, regulator or propane tank.
- Treating a portable generator like an indoor appliance. Carbon monoxide can enter through doors, windows, soffits and fresh-air intakes. Follow Health Canada's six-metre outdoor guidance.
- Backfeeding through a receptacle. This can energize utility lines and injure workers or neighbours. Only approved transfer equipment installed under permit should connect a generator to home wiring.
- Waiting until the storm warning. Portable generators, fuel and service appointments become difficult to find immediately before a major event.
- Skipping maintenance because the weekly test ran. An exercise cycle does not test every component under real household load. Annual maintenance remains necessary.
How Greenfoot approaches generator installation
Greenfoot's generator process is built around four stages:
- Home and kW assessment: evaluate electrical loads, fuel options, generator placement and project cost.
- Electrical site verification: review the panel, transfer-switch requirements, fuel routing and permit needs.
- Professional installation: prepare the base, install the generator and transfer switch, complete fuel and electrical connections, and test the system.
- System demonstration and maintenance review: explain automatic operation, exercise cycles, maintenance and homeowner responsibilities.
Most on-site installations take one to two days, with the full process — assessment, scheduling and permits included — commonly taking two to four weeks. Greenfoot currently offers 18 kW, 22 kW and 26 kW natural-gas or propane systems with automatic transfer equipment and free in-home assessments across Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland and Labrador, and British Columbia.
Ready to find the right generator size for your home?
A free in-home assessment from Greenfoot covers your full load inventory, fuel options, placement plan and installed price — with permits and inspection included.
Book a free generator assessmentSources: Public Safety Canada; Natural Resources Canada; Health Canada portable generator safety; Government of Canada sump pump and power-outage guidance; Home Depot Canada retail price ranges (July 2026); Generac home standby FAQ and ATS overview; Greenfoot Energy Solutions generator service page; Nova Scotia, NB, PEI, NL and BC provincial permit guidance; NB Power SureConnect; BC Hydro and Technical Safety BC stationary generator requirements; Nova Scotia Power, NB Power, Newfoundland Power, Maritime Electric outage cause data. Prices, permit rules and programs change — confirm with installer, manufacturer, authority having jurisdiction, utility and fuel supplier before purchase.