If your home has an oil, gas or electric boiler, switching to a heat pump is not always a simple equipment swap.
Your boiler heats water.
That hot water travels through radiators, hydronic baseboards, in-floor tubing or fan coils to heat the house.
Most residential heat pumps work differently. They heat air and move it through ductwork or indoor wall-mounted units.
That leaves boiler owners with an important decision:
Do you keep the hydronic system, work around it, or replace it?
There are several good paths.
The right one depends on your existing boiler, water temperature, home layout, fuel type, electrical service and whether the boiler also heats your domestic hot water.
First, Understand What Your Boiler Is Doing
A boiler does not blow warm air through ducts.
It heats water and circulates that water through the house.
Your system might use:
- Cast-iron radiators
- Hydronic baseboard heaters
- Radiant in-floor heating
- Fan coil units
- A combination of several hydronic emitters
Some boilers handle space heating only.
Others also produce your domestic hot water.
That difference matters.
If your boiler heats the taps and showers as well as the house, removing it means you need a new water-heating plan too.
Greenfoot offers several electric and heat pump water-heating options for homes moving away from oil or gas.
Option 1: Add Ductless Heat Pumps and Keep the Boiler
This is often the easiest starting point for an older boiler-heated home.
You leave the radiators or hydronic baseboards in place and install one or more ductless heat pumps.
The heat pumps handle most of the heating during normal winter weather.
The boiler stays available for colder periods, closed rooms or parts of the house outside the main heat-pump zones.
This approach has several advantages:
- No new ductwork
- Less disruption inside the home
- Air conditioning in summer
- Lower reliance on oil or gas
- Your existing boiler remains available as backup
The downside is simple.
You have not fully left the boiler behind.
You still maintain two heating systems, and an oil-heated home still needs the tank and fuel deliveries.
This approach makes the most sense when you want to reduce fuel use without committing to a full conversion yet.
Option 2: Replace the Boiler With Ductless Heat Pumps
A boiler home does not need ductwork to move to electric heating.
A properly designed ductless system uses indoor heat-pump heads placed throughout the house.
One head might serve an open living room and kitchen.
Other heads serve bedrooms, upper floors, basements or separate living areas.
For some houses, several independent single-zone systems make more sense. Other homes fit a multi-zone design.
Greenfoot installs cold-climate ductless heat pumps throughout New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland and Labrador, and British Columbia.
A full ductless conversion works best when the indoor-unit layout provides enough coverage for the complete heating load.
That is especially important in homes with lots of small rooms and closed doors.
What Happens to the Radiators?
If the boiler is fully removed, the old radiators or hydronic baseboards stop heating.
Some homeowners remove them during the project.
Others leave them physically in place until a future renovation.
If the system uses an oil or gas boiler and you are applying for a fuel-switching rebate, the program might require the old boiler and fuel infrastructure to be removed.
Always check the rebate rules before starting.
Option 3: Install a Central Ducted Heat Pump
If your home already has usable ductwork, this is much easier.
Most traditional boiler homes do not.
That does not make central heat impossible. It means ductwork becomes part of the project.
A central heat pump uses an air handler to distribute heated or cooled air throughout the house.
The result feels more like a traditional forced-air system.
Benefits include:
- Whole-home heating
- Whole-home air conditioning
- One central thermostat
- No wall-mounted indoor heads
- Integrated electric supplementary heat where required
The biggest drawback is installation complexity.
Adding ducts to a finished home often means working through basements, attics, closets, ceilings or bulkheads.
Some houses adapt well.
Others would require too much interior work for the central option to make financial sense.
Greenfoot offers whole-home ducted heat pump systems where the home and existing structure support them.
Option 4: Keep the Hydronic System With an Air-to-Water Heat Pump
This is the option boiler owners usually find most interesting.
Instead of heating indoor air, an air-to-water heat pump heats water.
The heated water then moves through a hydronic distribution system.
Natural Resources Canada recognizes air-to-water heat pumps for homes using hydronic heating, including radiators, radiant floors and fan coils.
In the right house, this means you might retain much of the heating distribution system you already have.
There is a catch.
Water temperature matters.
Why Your Existing Radiators Might Not Be a Direct Match
Traditional boilers often send much hotter water through radiators than a heat pump prefers to produce.
NRCan notes that air-to-water heat pumps operate most efficiently with hydronic water temperatures below roughly 45°C to 50°C.
That makes them a strong match for:
- Radiant floor heating
- Low-temperature radiators
- Fan coil units
- Hydronic systems designed around lower supply-water temperatures
Older high-temperature radiators might have been designed around water above 60°C.
That does not automatically rule out your radiators.
The contractor needs to determine how much heat each radiator delivers at a lower water temperature.
Some oversized older radiators perform surprisingly well at lower temperatures.
Other homes need larger emitters, fan coils or another heating strategy.
How Do You Know If Your Hydronic System Will Work?
The best test starts with the heating load.
Your contractor should calculate how much heat each room needs during winter.
Then compare that requirement with how much heat the existing radiator or baseboard provides at the proposed water temperature.
For example, a radiator that comfortably heats a bedroom with 70°C boiler water might deliver much less heat when supplied with 45°C water.
If the room still receives enough heat, great.
If not, the options include:
- Adding more radiator surface
- Replacing radiators with low-temperature models
- Installing fan coils
- Using ductless heat pumps in problem areas
- Keeping another form of supplementary heat
This is why boiler-to-heat-pump conversions need more planning than replacing one furnace with another.
British Columbia Has Specific Air-to-Water Heat Pump Rebates
B.C. is especially interesting for boiler owners because current CleanBC programs explicitly support air-to-water heat pumps.
The CleanBC Better Homes Energy Savings Program currently includes air-to-water heat pumps for homes switching from fossil fuel, electricity or wood.
For income-qualified homes converting from fossil fuel, current maximum rebates reach:
- Up to $13,000 for an eligible air-to-water heat pump
- Up to $16,500 for certain combined space-heating and water-heating heat pump systems
Lower rebate levels apply at other qualifying income tiers.
The standard Home Renovation Rebate Program also currently lists:
- $6,000 for an eligible air-to-water heat pump
- $7,000 for an eligible combined space and hot-water heat pump converting from fossil fuel
Program requirements are detailed.
If a fossil-fuel boiler is being replaced, the old heating equipment and related fuel infrastructure generally need to be removed.
Combination boilers that also provide domestic hot water require additional pre-approval instructions.
These are separate programs, not amounts to add together. Confirm income, utility, product, contractor and pre-approval requirements before committing to the work. Availability of a rebate does not confirm that Greenfoot offers every eligible system in your area.
Option 5: Ground-Source Heat Pump
Geothermal, or ground-source heating, gives boiler homeowners another path.
Instead of collecting heat from outdoor air, the system exchanges heat with the ground.
NRCan says ground-source systems support both air-based and hydronic distribution.
That makes geothermal particularly interesting for some homes already using radiant floors or another low-temperature hydronic system.
Ground-source heat pumps also avoid the large outdoor-air temperature swings experienced by air-source equipment.
The trade-off is upfront cost and site work.
A ground loop needs to be drilled or buried outside.
For the right home and long-term plan, it is worth comparing.
Greenfoot installs geothermal heat-pump systems in New Brunswick only. Elsewhere, this remains a technology to discuss with a qualified local geothermal provider, not a Greenfoot installation offer.
Option 6: Replace the Fuel Boiler With an Electric Boiler
This is not a heat pump.
It deserves a place in the conversation because it lets you keep the hydronic system with relatively little disruption.
An electric boiler heats the same water that already travels through your radiators, baseboards or radiant floor.
You remove combustion, the chimney requirement and fuel deliveries.
The trade-off is efficiency.
An electric boiler uses electric resistance heating, while a heat pump transfers heat and uses considerably less electricity to deliver the same amount of space heating under normal conditions.
For some homes, an electric boiler still works well as:
- A simple full electrification option
- Supplementary heat for another heat-pump system
- A way to retain an existing hydronic network
- A solution where air-to-water heat-pump compatibility is poor
Greenfoot installs electric boilers for hydronic heating applications and can compare that route with heat-pump options.
What If Your Boiler Also Heats Your Tap Water?
This is easy to overlook.
A combination boiler might provide both:
- Space heating
- Domestic hot water
Remove the boiler and both functions disappear.
Your new heating plan therefore needs a separate hot-water solution.
Common options include:
- Electric tank water heater
- Heat pump water heater
- Electric boiler or combination electric system
- Eligible combined air-to-water space and water heating equipment
Greenfoot offers heat pump, electric tank and electric boiler water-heating systems.
Should You Keep the Boiler as Backup?
Sometimes.
If the goal is to reduce oil or gas use rather than eliminate it, keeping the existing boiler as supplementary heat is one option.
NRCan recognizes hybrid systems where an air-source heat pump works alongside an existing boiler or furnace.
The heat pump operates when conditions favour it.
The boiler takes over when required.
This approach reduces fuel consumption without requiring an immediate full hydronic conversion.
There are two things to consider.
First, you still maintain two heating systems.
Second, some rebates require full removal of fossil-fuel equipment.
Do not assume you can keep the old boiler and still receive the same incentive.
Do You Need to Add Ductwork?
No.
This is one of the biggest misconceptions around boiler conversions.
A home without ducts still has several heat-pump paths:
- Ductless mini-splits
- Ductless multi-zone systems
- Air-to-water heat pumps
- Hydronic geothermal systems
Adding central ductwork is only one option.
The best choice depends on the house.
What About an Old Oil Boiler?
Oil-boiler homes have some of the strongest reasons to review a heat-pump conversion.
The conversion also removes oil deliveries when the boiler is fully decommissioned.
The project needs to account for:
- Oil tank removal
- Electrical capacity
- Whole-home heating coverage
- Supplementary heat
- Domestic hot water if the boiler currently provides it
Greenfoot covers oil conversions in more detail in The Great Fuel Switch: Getting Off Oil.
What Rebates Apply to Boiler-to-Heat-Pump Conversions?
The answer depends heavily on your province, existing fuel and household income. The following is a November 4, 2026 snapshot, not a funding guarantee. Check the current official rules before purchasing equipment or starting work.
New Brunswick
SaveEnergyNB's Total Home Energy Savings Program currently offers rebates including:
- $1,500 for an eligible central ducted air-source heat pump
- $400 for an eligible single mini-split
- $350 per eligible indoor head for a multi-zone system
- $2,000 for an eligible geothermal system
Households with combined gross income below $70,000 might qualify for free upgrades through the Enhanced Energy Savings Program.
SaveEnergyNB specifically says an eligible home heated exclusively by an oil-fired boiler or furnace might receive a cold-climate air-source heat pump or another approved heating system.
Under that program, the old oil boiler, tank and related infrastructure are removed as part of the upgrade.
Nova Scotia
Nova Scotia homeowners still have heat-pump support through Efficiency Nova Scotia.
Current options include the Home Energy Assessment program, Moderate Income Rebate and HomeWarming for qualifying households.
Rebate amounts depend on the proposed heat-pump system, added heating capacity and household eligibility.
A boiler-heated home should begin with a whole-home assessment because the distribution system and fuel type strongly affect the best conversion path.
Prince Edward Island
PEI's standard residential heat-pump rebates ended on April 15, 2026.
The previous free heat-pump and Oil to Heat Pump Affordability programs are also closed to new applicants.
The Government of PEI confirms those program closures.
Island homeowners should check current federal and provincial programs before building a project around an older rebate amount found online.
Newfoundland and Labrador
TakeCharge does not currently offer a general heat-pump rebate for every homeowner.
Newfoundland Power and Newfoundland and Labrador Hydro do offer heat-pump financing.
Oil-heated homeowners have another route through the Oil to Electric program, which supports approved whole-home conversions.
Eligible technologies include mini-splits, multi-splits, central heat pumps, electric boilers and electric furnaces.
Income-qualified households might also qualify for no-cost heat pumps and other efficiency upgrades through the TakeCharge Greener Homes Program.
British Columbia
B.C. currently has the clearest direct support for hydronic heat-pump conversions.
The CleanBC Energy Savings Program includes:
- Air-to-water heat pumps
- Combined space and hot-water heat pumps
- Central ducted systems
- Ductless systems
- Electrical service upgrades
For qualifying income levels, rebates for an air-to-water heat pump currently reach up to $13,000.
Eligible combined space and hot-water heat pumps reach up to $16,500.
What About the New Federal Heat Pump Rebate?
The federal government announced a new National Heat Pump Rebate in October 2026.
Eligible households at or below the published provincial and household-size after-tax income threshold may qualify for up to $10,000. Other eligible households may qualify for $2,000, subject to equipment costs and program rules.
As of November 4, 2026, the official federal page says the application portal is expected in early 2027. Eligible installations completed on or after November 1, 2026 may qualify retroactively, but funding is not guaranteed until an application is approved.
The system must meet the published equipment and whole-home heating requirements. Do not assume every boiler replacement or heat-pump type qualifies, or that provincial amounts can automatically be added to the federal rebate.
Greenfoot can help you review the published criteria and plan an installation. Homeowners apply to the government themselves; Greenfoot cannot confirm eligibility, approval, payment timing or the final rebate amount. See our federal heat-pump rebate assessment page for the current guidance.
Which Boiler-to-Heat-Pump Option Is Best?
Start with your existing heating system.
If You Have Radiant In-Floor Heating
An air-to-water or hydronic ground-source heat pump deserves serious consideration.
Radiant floors often operate at lower water temperatures, which fits heat-pump technology well.
If You Have Old High-Temperature Radiators
Ductless heat pumps are often easier than trying to force the entire radiator system to work at lower water temperatures.
An air-to-water system still deserves an engineering review, especially when the radiators are oversized.
If You Have Hydronic Baseboards
Check their required supply-water temperature before assuming they will work with an air-to-water heat pump.
Ductless or central air-based heat pumps might be the simpler route.
If You Already Have Ductwork
A central heat pump is usually worth comparing.
If You Want to Keep the Boiler for Now
Add ductless heat pumps and let them carry as much of the heating season as practical.
If You Want to Eliminate Oil or Gas Completely
Design the entire project together, including space heating, backup heat, water heating, electrical capacity and removal of the old fuel system.
Questions to Ask Before Replacing a Boiler With a Heat Pump
- Does my boiler provide space heating only, or domestic hot water too?
- What is my home's calculated heat loss?
- What water temperature does my existing hydronic system need on the coldest day?
- Will my radiators provide enough heat at 45°C to 50°C water temperatures?
- Would ductless heat pumps be simpler than converting the hydronic system?
- Is adding central ductwork practical in my house?
- Would an air-to-water system work with my existing emitters?
- Would geothermal make sense for the property?
- What provides supplementary heat during extreme cold?
- What happens to my domestic hot water after the boiler is removed?
- Does my electrical panel or service need an upgrade?
- Does the rebate require the old boiler or fuel tank to be removed?
Boiler to Heat Pump FAQs
Can I replace a boiler with a heat pump?
Yes. Common options include ductless heat pumps, a central ducted heat pump, an air-to-water heat pump or a ground-source system. The best choice depends on your home's hydronic distribution, heat loss and layout.
Can a heat pump use my existing radiators?
An air-to-water or hydronic ground-source heat pump may use existing radiators when those radiators provide enough heat at lower water temperatures. Older systems designed around water above 60°C need a careful compatibility assessment.
Do I need to remove my radiators when switching to a heat pump?
No. If you choose ductless or central air-based heat pumps, unused radiators can remain physically in place. An air-to-water system might continue using them if the system is compatible.
What is an air-to-water heat pump?
An air-to-water heat pump extracts heat from outdoor air and transfers that heat into water for a hydronic heating system. It works best with lower-temperature emitters such as radiant floors, fan coils and suitable radiators.
Are air-to-water heat pumps good for old radiators?
Sometimes. The answer depends on how much heat the radiators deliver at lower water temperatures. Large older radiators might perform well, while smaller high-temperature emitters might need replacement or supplemental heating.
Can I keep my boiler as backup for a heat pump?
Yes in some system designs. NRCan recognizes hybrid heat-pump systems using a boiler as supplementary heat. Some rebate programs require fossil-fuel equipment to be removed, so check program rules first.
Do I need ductwork to replace a boiler with a heat pump?
No. Ductless heat pumps and air-to-water heat pumps do not require a conventional forced-air duct system.
What happens to hot water if I remove a combination boiler?
You need a new domestic water-heating system. Options include a standard electric tank, heat pump water heater, electric boiler or an eligible combined space-and-water heat-pump system.
Is a heat pump more efficient than an oil boiler?
NRCan reports cold-climate air-source heat pumps reach seasonal efficiencies up to three times higher than an oil furnace or boiler. Actual operating cost depends on local energy prices, the home and equipment performance.
What is the best heat pump for a home with radiant floors?
Air-to-water and hydronic ground-source heat pumps are worth comparing because radiant floors typically operate at lower water temperatures, which suits heat-pump operation well.
Start With the System You Already Have
There is no single boiler-to-heat-pump conversion.
A home with radiant floors has different options from a century home with cast-iron radiators.
An oil combination boiler creates different questions from an electric boiler serving space heating only.
The right project starts by measuring the home's heat loss, understanding the existing hydronic system and deciding whether you want to keep the boiler, reduce its use or remove it completely.
Greenfoot installs ductless and central heat-pump systems across New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland and Labrador, and British Columbia. Greenfoot's geothermal installations are available in New Brunswick only.
Our team also provides electric boilers and heat pump water-heating solutions when a boiler conversion changes the home's hot-water system.